翻越雪山的背后

朱瑞：专访西藏流亡政府教育部部长图丹龙热

地点：印度，达兰萨拉
翻译：贡噶扎西

朱瑞：昨天（2008年11月15日）在难民接等站，我看到一些孩子们，最小的只有五、六岁，他说，是和哥哥一起来的，而他的哥哥，也仅十三岁。听说，这种情况在西藏流亡社区很普遍，并在逐年增加。那么，是什么使这些孩子的父母，放心地把自己的骨肉送上一条艰辛的长路：穿过陡峭的雪山，冒着中共枪口随时射击的危险，到印度流亡社区求学？

图丹龙热：虽然我本人没有到过西藏，对境内的教育情况不十分了解，但是，有些方面，比较清楚。比如从读书的机会看，在境内必须有足够的经济来源或者可靠的走后门方式，才能使孩子们在比较好的学校里，也就是较正常的环境里学习。而流亡社会，实行的是十二年制免费教育，并且，学校之间，班级之间，差别不大。从学习的内容看，境内的教学，以汉文为主，不重视本民族文化和语言的学习，可能这是两方面主要差别之一。

朱瑞：是的。据我了解，2002年修改《西藏自治区学习、使用和发展藏语文的若干规定》的时候，删除了有利于藏语文学习的一些规定。因而，2007年月1月，西藏著名的语言学家，扎西次仁先生上书自治区人代会，明确“这是历史性的倒退。”并说，“母语正以惊人的速度退出社会生活的舞台。”后来，北京召开了专家座谈会，来自西藏三区的学者，确认了中共的2002年《规定》，“制约了藏语文的学习，使用和发展，剥夺了藏民族学习和使用自己的语言和文字的权利，从而也剥夺了藏民族保护和传承自己民族文化的权利。”有趣的是，白皮书*说，2002年发布的《规定》，“使藏语文的学习、使用和发展获得了可靠的法律保障。”

图丹龙热：（笑）另外，从学生的前途看，如果以藏文为主，找不到工作。在境内的教育体系里，主要以中国政府的政策、观点为主，他们的宗旨是把学生培养成为对国家有用的人。而我们的宗旨是，把学生培养成对民族，国家，还有国际社会都有用的人，让一个学生，有广阔的生存前景。

朱瑞：听说，走进流亡藏区，不管在多么偏远的地方，最好的建筑都是学校，有人说，流亡社区的学校，比印度学校条件还要好，那么，如果印度的孩子想到西藏学校上学，你们接受吗？怎么收费？

图丹龙热：流亡社区的办学宗旨始终是保护和延续西藏宗教、文化和风俗，在这个基础上，开设了同等学校应该开设的一切现代课程。如果当地印度人或其他外国人，能接接受这个宗旨，我们也接受他们。关于学费，印度政府有一个专门的标准。不过，如果非藏人学生的父母在本校工作的话，可以免费。

朱瑞：在北美，我见到很多流亡社区培养出来的学生，他们即有传统的西藏文化，又有现代知识，我们是怎样做到传统和现代相结合的？

图丹龙热：在学校里，我们以三种语言，即藏语，英语，还有印度语进行教学。在藏语教学里，包括讲授西藏宗教，历史，风俗等内容。在英语教学里，讲授现代的课程，比如社会科学和自然科学等，除此，一到八年级还有印度语课程，不过，我们正在减少。十一年级以后，根据学生的个人意愿，学校分文、理两科，为升入大学做准备。

朱瑞：流亡政府是否资助那些升入大学的学生？

图丹龙热：成绩优秀的学生，我们提供百分之百的奖学金。一般升入大学的学生，我们帮助解决学费问题。总之，教育部尽力解决升入大学的西藏学生的经济困难，使他们顺利地完成学习任务。

朱瑞：在流亡社区里，每年有多少学生送到国外留学？

图丹龙热：没有固定的名额，一年至少有二十到二十五个学生。只要有奖学金，我们都会派出去学习。

朱瑞：出去的学生都能回来为流亡政府工作吗？

图丹龙热：有时候不会百分之百地回来。就是不回来，在国外，他们也一样为西藏社会服务。

朱瑞：回来的学生都有在政府里工作的机会吗？

图丹龙热：一部分在流亡政府工作。另外一部分在各个民间组织和西藏社会工作。我们不是集权制，不允许通过私人关系进行安置。如果政府部门有名额的话，会按照相关的规定对外公布，然后，进行统一考试。考上的话，是公务员，如果没有考上，这个学生又不错的话，有时用合约，或者聘用的方式雇用。

朱瑞：听说我们有一个示范学校，和普通学校相比，有哪些不同？

图丹龙热：当初我们失去家园，流亡印度后，达赖喇嘛尊者做出的第一个重要决定就是成立学校，把我们的民族文化完整地保存下来，贡献给国际社会，并不是为了对抗谁。尊者强调，我们所有的奋斗目标不是我胜你败的问题，而是把我们的后代怎样培养成既拥有西藏传统文化又有现代知识的优秀的人才，成为不仅对我们的民族，也对国际社会有用的人。随着时间的增长，到70年代，我们总结经验的时候，觉得成绩不错，达到了我们的目标，也就是培养了合乎我们要求的人才，但是，我们还是不满意，觉得人数不够，不多。

做部长之前，我曾在达兰萨拉附近的一所学校教书。这个学校的大多数学生，来自西藏境内，应该说，他们的个性，生活方式，想法，各方面，都和印度出生的西藏学生不一样，孩子们的皮气暴躁，易激动，而出生在印度的西藏学生，没有境内那种缺少信仰和相互伤害的生存环境，比较平和，宁静。遇到这种情况，我们首先想到的是，不能呆在办公室里遮掩真相，而是必需解决问题。在研究解决这些问题的过程中，发现我们的教育政策也有不足。因此，2002年我们制定了新的教育政策。在试行新的政策过程中，我们遇到了很多的问题，人，有的时候受到了某个社会的影响，形成一种观念，很难再从那个框框里摆脱出来。

朱瑞：是啊，汉人有句话，叫做画地为牢。

图丹龙热：示范学校，就是从一到十二年级，以循序渐进的方式，试行新的教育政策。物色示范学校的教师时，我们也很慎重。一开始就和他们讲了，这不是一所特殊的学校，我们的目的是把这些学生培养成为正常的，适合现代社会的人才，困难是很大的。

朱瑞：那么，和以往比，新的教育政策有哪些不同呢？

图丹龙热：着重民主和非暴力的重要性。达赖喇嘛尊者一直告诉我们，民众是最重要的，也就是说民主是最重要的，到目前，我们的民主，都是自上而下实现的，没有经过任何流血。

朱瑞：这也是建立民主的理想方式，遗憾的是在亚洲地区，尤其在中国，举步维艰。

图丹龙热：另外，达赖喇嘛尊者的理想是把西藏变成和平区，如果民众不是和平的，我们的区域怎么可能和平？因而，向我们的后代贯彻尊者的非暴力思想，是非常重要的。

朱瑞：听说我们还有一个独立的教育体系？

图丹龙热：是的，流亡社区建立了儿童村教育体系。那里的孩子大部分来自西藏，父母不在身边，我们不仅要对孩子们授课，还以家庭的方式配备了父母。每个父母，差不多有30到40左右的学生，大家一起在早、晚念诵经文，一起吃住，让孩子们在远离家乡的地方，享受家庭的温暖。

朱瑞：最近，中国国务院新闻办公室发表的白皮书中，谈到“中华人民共和国的成立，给西藏文化的保护和发展带来了希望”，您是怎么看这个问题的？

贡噶扎西：如果真的给西藏文化的保护和发展带来了希望，为什么数不尽的年轻人，甚至孩子，克服重重困难到流亡社区求学？对此，中国政府甚至发表通告进行阻止和迫害。比如，2008年7月15日，《西藏日报》就刊登了这样一条消息：

“凡共产党员、国家公职人员将子女送到境外达赖集团所办学校上学（所建寺庙入寺或学经）的，一律给予开除党籍和开除公职处分。”

朱瑞：在流亡社区，学校的设施远比流亡政府的办公条件好。看得出，达赖喇嘛尊者非常重视教育。可是，白皮书说，“达赖集团和一些西方反华势力自己享受着现代文明和文化的成果，却以‘保护西藏文化’为名，要求藏民族和西藏文化永远停留在中世纪状态，成为活化石。”

图丹龙热：（笑）谢谢你亲自到流亡社区，进行调查采访，希望你把真实情况，准确地告诉世人，尤其是中国人。

朱瑞：是的，中国民众得到的通常都是被歪曲的信息。我曾在西藏工作过，亲眼看到了西藏文化被蹂躏的事实，又在国外看到了藏人正以完整的知识结构，稳步地立足于国际社会。其实，不用到流亡社区，我也知道真相。有人说，达赖喇嘛尊者的精神，超前了这个世界一百年，我到达兰萨拉的目的，是接受这个超前教育，拯救自己的精神，这也是对每一个中国人，都有意义的事情。


* 指2008年9月25日中国国务院新闻办公厅发表的《西藏文化与保护》白皮书。

我的另一个栖身之所

——达兰萨拉尼蒙电脑中心（NYIMON COMPUTER CENTRE）印象

文/朱瑞

[国际西藏邮报2009年1月26日首发]人们不得不承认，高高的喜马拉雅，并没有挡住所有的阴云。我是说，有些时候，达兰萨拉的环境并不单纯。然而，尼蒙电脑中心是单纯的，单纯而又安全，如同一片纯蓝的天空。

和其它的网吧不一样，这里没有常见的混乱和喧哗，是秩序的，也是宁静的，甚至带着扑面而来的书卷气息。

也许是达兰萨拉的大多数旅馆里，没有上网设施吧，相应地，这里的大街小巷，尽是网吧。我的旅馆附近，就排列了好几家，举步即到。可是，我还是每天带上自己的手提电脑，爬上一个高坡，再下到一个低处，到并不算近的尼蒙电脑中心查看信件和寻找资料。

最初，尼蒙电脑中心吸引我的原因是网速快。举目可见的墙上，悬挂着一张我最喜爱的达赖喇嘛尊者年轻时的照片，照片的下面写着这样一句话：

永远不要放弃

不论发生了什么
永远不要放弃
在你的国家
过多的精力是用来发展精神
来替代内心
把仁慈
给予每一个人
不仅仅是你的朋友
仁慈地
在这个世界和你的心中
为和平而工作
无论发生了什么
无论在你的周围发生了什么
永远不要放弃

——神圣的十四世达赖喇嘛

我已习惯于早晨八点钟左右查看信件。而这个时候，尼蒙电脑中心的那扇铁网门，更多的是紧紧地关着，因为九点钟开门。而我，是不可以等的，这是八年的北美生活留下的后遗症。的确，对于大多数生活在西方的人来说，时间，比金子还要宝贵。有几次，我硬是敲响了尼蒙电脑中心的铁门。

“早晨好！”老板尼玛顿珠微笑着立刻出现在门前。

“对不起，这么早打拢您！”我说。

“没关系。”尼玛顿珠一边说着，一边退到门边，为我让开了路。迅速地帮我上网后，通常，还要端来一杯甜茶。太好喝了，即不清淡，也不油腻，是所有的甜茶中，我最喜欢的。

有一次，实在太早了，我不好意思敲门，就到了对面的网吧。“朱瑞！”刚坐下，就听到有人喊我。原来，是在尼蒙电脑中心工作的达瓦，他正在站在门外的雨里看着我呢。他是偶然经过时发现我的。如同见了救命恩人似的，我立刻跟着他回到了尼蒙电脑中心。站在门前，达瓦指给了我门楣上方的门铃，说，“敲门的声音有时太小，任何时候，只要你来，就拉铃。”

我和尼蒙电脑中心所有的人都熟悉了，而最熟悉的当然还是老板尼玛顿珠。他是在母亲的流亡途中出生的，那是尼泊尔和西藏的边境。后来，他在西藏儿童村学习了十二年，再后来，在印度南部的郭里嘎难民社区的宗萨寺工作了八年，既当秘书，又教僧人们学习英文，最后回到达兰萨拉，在辩经学院，一呆又是八年。

那时，辩经院办了一个电脑培训班，作为工作人员，尼玛顿珠既负责管理，又要教授电脑知识，同时自己也要不断的学习和补充。他说，“在教学中，我学到了很多东西，正像嘉瓦仁波切说的那样，‘为人谋利的同时，自己也获利’。我的感受太大了，在这方面。”

但是，辩经院的收入太低，不足以抵挡一家老小的开支，这样，尼玛顿珠自己开起了电脑培训班。不仅可以维持一家人的生活，还可以继续传授电脑知识。其实，只靠电脑培训和网吧，甚至不够支付房租，为了增加一些收入，尼玛顿珠还搞设计，录相，音乐等其它工作。2005年，他自费出版了自己编写的“COMPUTER COURSE FOR BEGINNERS”，做为初学者学习电脑的入门教材，并在寺院和学校，进行了免费增送。

目前为止，尼蒙电脑中心已培训了四百多学生，加上辩经学院的学生，尼玛顿珠为流亡社会共培养了一千多名学生，都是他亲自教授和指导。尊敬出家人，是西藏社会自古以来的传统。在尼玛顿珠的教学中，也显而易见地体现了出来。尽管僧人和尼姑在收费上一律平等，但是他总是给他们比俗人更多的时间学习，比如普通人是一个小时，而出家人，就是两个小时甚至三个小时。

针对僧人和尼姑将回到寺院从事电脑工作的实际情况，尼玛更多地教他们修理电脑的技术，同时他还举行一些培训会。但是，很多僧尼提出建议，说，尼玛顿珠编写的这本电脑书尽管很好，不过，由于是英语编写的，有些人读不懂，尼玛就又着手翻译成藏文。

“教出了这么多的学生，我很骄傲，社会上需要更多的电脑培训者。”说着，尼玛顿珠憨厚地笑了。

《Unlocking Tibet》是唯色和王力雄合著并被译成英文的深受广大读者欢迎的好书，其封面，就是尼玛顿珠设计的。“为什么把王力雄和唯色两人设计成了背对着背呢？”我问。

“一个是汉人，一个是藏人，他们的观点有时也不一样，但是，在介绍西藏真实情况这一点上，他们是一致的，都毫不畏惧地站立在危险的中国，坚守正义。”

尼玛顿珠设计过很多封面，但是，从没有用过自己的名字，“这一次为《Unlocking Tibet》设计封面，是不得不用自己的名字，是人家要求的。”

很偶然的，我在达兰萨拉的大街上遇到了一位十多年前，在拉萨时的老朋友，我们就一起去了附近的一家网吧，那以后，我的电脑莫名其妙地出现了病毒。这样一来，就更不敢去其它网吧了。

这位多年前我在拉萨老相识，有一次复印东西的时候，带着我到了尼蒙电脑中心。我说，“你为什么专门到这里呢？”“这里最便宜。”他说。的确，尼玛顿珠不仅没有生意人唯利是图的特点，倒像是一个乐善好施的修行人。

有一次，达瓦看到了我的电脑上，我和尊者站在一起的照片，就说，“给我吧？”我毫不犹豫地COPE进了他的U盘。并说，“这是永远的纪念，我不想发表。”他点点头。在环境格外复杂的达兰萨拉，我对尼蒙电脑中心，有着甚至超越老相识的信任。而这种信任从何而来呢？

静静的电脑室里，尼玛一丝不苟，耐心而清晰地指导孩子们和那些上了年纪的人们学习电脑，这种认真和负责的态度，还有对待他的工作人员的信任和友善，都让我不自主地一次在一次地在心中赞叹着。

离开达兰萨拉前往瓦拉纳西倾听尊者讲座时，尼玛给了我一个红色的纸包，说，“这是一点心意。”我说，“可以打开吗？”他笑了，点点头。原来，是一个银色的项链，还点缀着纯银色的圆形装饰物。我说了声“谢谢”，就放在了桌子上。尼玛却反问我，“你知道这是什么？”

“项链啊。”我说。

“仅仅是项链吗？”

“还有别的意思吗？”

“再看一看。”尼玛拿起了那个银色的圆形装饰物。

我说，“这是一个装饰物啊！”

“仅仅是装饰物吗？”

我再次拿起来，按照尼玛的指点，细看那个圆形的银盘，“啊，原来，原来那上面印制着照片！是我送给达瓦的我和尊者站在一起的那张照片啊！

“当初，向你要那张照片时，我就想到了今天。”达瓦走来了。

那天晚上，尼玛顿珠让达瓦提着我所有的沉重的行李，到了汽车站，而后，达瓦又上了车，坐在了我的身边：“我要和你一起到德里，直到把你送上去往瓦拉纳西的火车。”我说，“这是在太浪费你的时间啊！”“不，我也是到德里去买一些电脑用品，真的，不完全是为你。”停了一会儿，达瓦又忍不住说，“我的老板说了，你那么善良，那么理解为我们这些离乡背景的藏人，应该为你做一点事。”

其实，我并没有为藏民族做什么，不过是说了真话而已，这是作为一个人最基本的素质。

完稿于2009年1月21日达兰萨拉


My Second Home

——My opinion of Nyimon Computer Centre at Dharamsala


By Zhu Rui - Translated by Dekyi

Dharamshala: TibetPost-26January-2009-People have to admit, the high Himalaya Mountains don't block all the dark clouds. The environment in Dharamsala is not uncontaminated. However, the Nyimon Computer Centre is pure, simple and safe as a clear blue sky.

Unlike the other Internet cafes, there is no common chaos and noise: everything is in order and quiet, and the air carries the smell of books.

Most of the hotels in Dharamsala don't have Internet facilities; therefore, the streets are full of Internet cafes. Just a few steps away from my hotel there are several cafes side by side. But, I take my laptop every day, climb up a high-slope, and then down to Nyimon Computer Centre, which is not so nearby, to check my email and read the news.

From the start, the Nyimon Computer Centre has attracted me for two reasons: one is its fast speed, and second is in spite of all the other Internet cafes' high prices, since the charges are lower here. There is also one of my favorite pictures of His Holiness the Dalai Lama, at a young age, hanging on the wall. Under the photo is written:

"Never give up

No matter what is going on

Never give up

Develop the heart

Too much energy in your country

Is spent developing the mind

Instead of the heart

Be compassionate

Not just to your friends

But to everyone

Be compassionate

Work for peace

In your heart and in the world

Work for peace

And I say again

Never give up

No matter what is going on around you

Never give up.

His Holiness the Fourteenth Dalai Lama"

I am usually accustomed to checking my email around 8 o'clock in the morning. That early, the iron gate of the Nyimon Computer Centre was locked, because they don't open until 9 o'clock. But I am impatient, which becomes a habit after eight years living in North America. Indeed, for most people living in the West, time is valuable as gold. However, in the other Internet cafes, I am never comfortable, especially when they charge higher prices. Those few Rupees take away my desire to ever go back again. A few times, I've just knocked the iron door of the Nyimon Computer Centre.

"Good morning!" says Nyima Dhundup, the director of the Nyimon Computer Centre, immediately appearing at the door with smile.

"Sorry to disturb you so early!" I say.

"It doesn't matter." Nyima Dhundup says. He quickly helps me connect to the Internet and offers me a cup of sweet tea, as usual. The tea tastes very good, not too light, not too greasy, just the way I prefer the most.

Once, I came very early. I was too embarrassed to knock on the door, so I went to a café opposite the Nyimon Computer Centre. Just as I was sitting down, "Zhu Rui!" I heard someone call to me. It was Dawa, who works for the Nyimon Computer Centre, standing outside in the rain. He saw me when I passed by and I felt rescued. He took me into Nyimon Computer Centre and stood in font of the door and pointed to the doorbell, and said, "The sound of knocking is too quiet to hear sometimes. When you come at anytime, just ring the doorbell."

I and all the other regular customers of the Nyimon Computer Centre are very familiar with Nyima Dhundup, the director of the centre. He was born in the border of Nepal and Tibet when his mother was escaping Tibet into exile. Later, he studied at the Tibetan Children's Village school (TCV) in Dharamsala until class twelve. Later, he went to Colegal Tibetan refugee community in South India and worked for Dzongsar monastery for eight years. He was a secretary and taught English to the monks. He finally returned to Dharamsala and stayed another eight years at Institution of Buddhists Dialectics.

At that time, the Institution of Buddhists Dialectics started a computer training course. As a staff member, Nyima Dhundup was responsible for both the management and teaching computer science. At the same time, he also had to continue learning computers. He said, "During teaching, I learned many things, as His Holiness the Dalai Lama says, 'well-profit for others, at the same time, oneself is also profit.' I feel too much, in this respect. "

However, the pay at the Institution of Buddhists Dialectics was too low to cover his family's expenses. So, Nyima Dhundup started his own computer training courses. He was not only able to make a living, but also could continue to teach computer literacy. Nyima Dhundup also engaged in design, video, and music. In 2005, out of his own pocket, he wrote and published the "COMPUTER COURSE FOR BEGINNERS", as a teaching manual for beginners to learn the computer science, and was sent to monasteries and schools, free of charge.

So far, he has trained more than 400 students at the Nyimon Computer Centre, and even more at the Institution of Buddhists Dialectics. Nyima Dhundup has taught a total of more than a thousand students in the exile community.

Respect for monks and nuns is a convention in Tibetan society since ancient times. Nyima Dhundup's teachings also reflect this moral spirit: although the monks and nuns pay the same as others, he always gives them the extra time to learn. For example, class is customarily an hour for most students, but monks and nuns are given two or even three hours.

To help monks and nuns continue utilizing their computer skills after returning to the monasteries and nunneries, Nyima spends more time in training workshops, teaching them how to repair computers. However, many monks and nuns have said that although Nyima Dhundup's computer manual is very good, it isn't easy to read because it's written in English. Nyima then embarked on translating it into Tibetan.

"Teaching so many students, I feel very proud and society needs more people to teach computer courses," said Nyima Dhundup, smiling.

"Unlocking Tibet "is a book co-written by the Tibetan writer, Woeser, and her husband, Wang Li Xiong, the Chinese writer who translated the book into English, which was welcomed by many readers. The cover of this book was designed by Nyima Dhundup. "Why is your design Wang Li Xiong and Woeser standing back-to-back?" I asked.

"One is a Han Chinese and the other is a Tibetan: they sometimes are not in the same point of view, but, on the point of the introduction, of the real situation, they are the same. Both of them are not afraid to face the danger of the repercussions from the Chinese authority for the services of justice."

Nyima Dhundup has designed many book covers, but never used his name before he was requested to for "Unlocking Tibet".

I occasionally run into an old friend in the streets of Dharamsala, who I knew in Lhasa ten years ago. We went to a nearby Internet café where my computer was inexplicably attacked by a virus. After that, I was afraid to go to any Internet cafes.

One day my old friend took me to the Nyimon Computer Centre to make a copy. I asked, "Why do you especially come here?" "Here, it is the cheapest," he said. Indeed, Nyima Dhundup is not motivated by profit, unlike the character of many businessmen; he appears more like a charitable person.

On one occasion, Dawa, another working in the Internet café, saw the photo on my computer of His Holiness the Dalai Lama and me, and then said, "Give it to me, right?" I did not hesitate to copy into his U disk. And said, "This is an eternal commemoration that I do not want it published." He nodded. Particularly in Dharamsala, with the complex environment, I trust Nyimon Computer Centre more than my old friend. And where does this trust come from?

In the quiet cyber room, Nyima gives clear and patient guidance to children and elderly people to learn computers. Such a conscientious and responsible attitude, as well as the treatment of his staff, is always out of trust and friendship. I always admired his attitude.

Before leaving Dharamsala to go to Varanasi for His Holiness the Dalai Lama's teaching, Nyima had given me a red paper and said, "This is a small gift." I said, "Can I open?" He smiled and nodded. It turned out that was a silver necklace, dotted with pure silver round ornaments. I said "Thank you", and placed it on the table. Nyima asked me, "You know what this is?"

"Necklace!" I said.

"Is it just a necklace?"

"Are there other meanings?" "Let us take a look." Nyima picked up the silver round ornament.

I said, "Oh, this is a charm!"

"Is it only a charm?"

I picked it up again, following Nyman's hints, I looked carefully at that silver round charm. There was actually a portrait printed on the charm. It was my special treasure, the picture of His Holiness the Dalai Lama and me! That was the photo I gave to Dawa as a gift.

As Dawa walked by, he said "At first, I asked you for the photo because I thought of this gift for you today."

That night, Nyima Dhundup let Dawa take all my heavy baggage to the bus station, then Dawa also got on a vehicle, sitting on my side: "I want to come to Delhi with you until you get on the train to Varanasi," he said. I said," This is too much to waste your time! "" No, I am also going to Delhi to buy some computer supplies, really, is not entirely a matter for you." Dawa stopped for a while before saying, "My boss said you are very kind and always understanding of Tibetans in Exile, we should do something for you."

In fact, I did not do anything for the Tibetan people, but in my morals I tell the truth: this is the most basic quality in a person.

Finalized in January 21, 2009 Dharamsala

绛红色的瓦拉纳西

绛红色的瓦拉纳西

2009年1月8日-14日。
在佛教圣地瓦拉纳西（鹿野苑）。
尊者达赖喇嘛向来自喜马拉雅地区为主的信众，以及来自世界各地的西方信众和华人信众等两万多名信众，传授佛法法要和殊胜灌顶。法会现场有印度语、俄罗斯语、法语和华语翻译。
藏人团体如西藏青年大会、西藏多麦（安多）社团等，向尊者达赖喇嘛供奉永驻长寿仪轨。

摄影者：朱瑞

朱瑞——一位敢於正視藏人苦難的漢人作家

等待晋见达赖喇嘛尊者（摄于2008年12月30日）

文/德吉

寫朱瑞女士之前，我希望自己如同她一樣也是一位作家，這樣，我筆下的她，一定更令人欽佩和尊敬。但作為媒體人，我只能在文風不足之下，概括地寫出與她相識和相知的幾個片斷。

我們是在共同的友人、西藏著名作家唯色女士的介紹下認識的。但是對我和大多數懂中、英文的藏人來說，朱瑞並不陌生。她那些有關西藏內容的作品，無論是小說、散文、詩歌、還是雜文，都以獨特的見解、理性的思維，震撼著我。

她是真實的，從不虛假和矯揉造作。

2008年11月上旬，她初抵印度時告訴我，“達蘭薩拉是我夢寐以求的地方！”如她所願，在達蘭薩拉，她拜見到了她一生中最敬仰的人——達賴喇嘛尊者。她形容尊者雖如慈父般親切，但仍然有著王者的尊貴，不過，不是統治人的王，而是保護臣民的王，讓人只想在尊者的羽翼下，體味著人生正常的喜怒哀樂。

8月8日，北京奧運會開始時，朱瑞女士發表了寫給達賴喇嘛尊者的公開信，表達了一個漢人對藏人悲苦的命運的同情和對尊者的無限崇敬，並且，這種崇敬，將延續她生生世世。

11月22日，朱瑞女士與來自世界各國的10名民運人士在達蘭薩拉達賴喇嘛尊者的宮邸受到尊者的親自接見。朱瑞說：“在兩個多小時的接見中，尊者從沒有說過一句冠冕堂皇的話，他認真地，平等地和每一個人交流。尊者達賴喇嘛尊重一切生命，信任一切生命，在他的世界裏，沒有等級之分。從這裏，我理解了流亡社會裏民主制度根深蒂固的原因。其實，那些中共領導人，實在該見一見尊者，明瞭這個世界除了假、惡，和獨裁以外，還有真、善，和民主的存在。並且，後者的生存空間更加廣闊。在我看來，反對尊者，在某種程度上，就是和這個世界對立。也是在暴露他們自己的罪惡。”

在達蘭薩拉近兩個月的時間裏，她先後採訪了第十七世噶舉派法王——噶瑪巴仁波切、西藏流亡政府首席部長桑東仁波切、西藏流亡政府教育部部長圖登龍日、宗教與文化部部長次仁彭措、外交與新聞部部長達拉·格桑央吉女士和內政部副秘書長歐珠多吉等，其中部分採訪錄已發表在唯色博客、博訊等中文網站上，並被多家媒體轉載。

除了通過採訪，深入瞭解西藏傳統宗教與文化在流亡社區的延續與發展、西藏流亡政府各部門的運作、民主體制與教育事業的發展、藏中對話進展和未來西藏的前景等以外，她還專門訪問了非官方組織，比如「西藏前政治犯九十三運動」和「西藏青年會」等。她說：“這兩個組織，和中共的宣傳有著本質的不同，不僅不是恐怖組織，在我看來，簡直是名正言順的慈善機構。”

憑著對西藏根深蒂固的瞭解，她的忙碌是沒有局限性的。她還不忘與達蘭薩拉流亡社區和流亡政府裏的部分熟識且精通西藏傳統民俗、原西藏貴族生活方式、文學與藝術的西藏長者和年輕人進行交流與溝通。

她從不浪費時間，即使在吃飯喝茶時，都會自然地把周圍的人帶到工作中。她總是這樣，以與生俱來的善良、誠懇和熱心與每一個人接觸。在這裏，包括我在內，很多與她接觸過的人都會說：“她前世一定是一個藏人。”

她和唯色女士曾在拉薩的《西藏文學》雜誌社一起工作過，作為同事又是知己，她對唯色的作品有著獨特的見解：“在中國的許多文學作品墮落成華麗的僵屍的時候，唯色的作品，卻質樸地，健康地，和格外鮮活地朝我們走來。她的文字的精製，已被自然和桀驁不馴覆蓋了，這是文學的大境界，這樣的作品毫無疑問，有著廣闊的前景。這也是那些不懂文學精髓的人，無法理解的。”

“和那些體制內的作家不一樣，唯色從沒有為了既得利益，繞過西藏的苦難，寄居在某些文學流派，或者主義裏，遊刃有餘地玩弄文字遊戲。也沒有絞盡腦汁地以某些技術和新奇，裝飾她的文字，從而使自己在中國的文學圈裏招搖。她一絲不苟地以一個藏人和作家的良心，忠實地寫她看見的一切，她是她這個時代的見證人。寫不盡的西藏苦難，深厚的文學底蘊，和對美的準確無誤的理解，使她的文字自然，蓬勃，具有一種超越塵俗之美。”

朱瑞一向用行動為西藏問題儘早獲得解決而發聲。她通過極具說服力的文筆，在藏人和漢人之間搭建橋樑，致力於消除雙方誤解，加深彼此的瞭解和認識。尤其是她在華人中間，介紹西藏的歷史、文化、民俗、政治、民族特性和悲慘現狀。2008年3月，遍佈整個藏區的反中共統治示威活動遭到中共軍警的血腥鎮壓後，她誠實地向世人展現了藏人苦難的現實，寫下了有理有據的調查報告：《為什麼藏人要抗議》。由於深深的西藏情結，把她推上與藏人同呼吸、共患難的命運，因此，她對西藏前景的擔憂，絕不亞於飽受苦難的藏人。

對於西藏問題的認識，朱瑞女士說：“一位仍然生活在大陸的漢人作家說過，他支持西藏獨立，不為別的，就為了藏人身上那種強烈的民族意識；另一位長期居住在達蘭薩拉的英國人也說，‘面對資源越來越貧乏的中國，西藏問題的解決，似乎更加無望。不過，只要藏人能夠保持西藏的文化傳統，總在一天，西藏問題會解決，因為任何朝代都有崩潰的時候，沒有一個朝代是永遠的’。 我同意以上的說法。對我來說，我支持藏人自己的選擇。獨立也好，自治也好，那是他們的權力。而通向這個目的，目前看來，有兩條比較重要的途徑：第一，像尊者說的那樣，和中國民眾交流。現在，流亡社區裏的四個非官方性組織（西藏前政治犯九十三運動、西藏婦女會、西藏全國民主黨、自由西藏學生運動），已開始了聲援08憲章的活動，這也是和中國民眾進行交流的一個非常有效的方式。第二，保護西藏傳統文化，使藏民族永存。”

12月30日，朱瑞女士專訪了尊者達賴喇嘛。她向我談到對這次訪談的看法和感受時說：“我比上一次更強烈地感受到法王的真摯和慈悲。擁有尊者，事實上，不僅是藏人的幸運，也是人類幸運，尤其是漢人的幸運。希望有一天，越來越多的漢人能看到這個事實。到那時，中國人才真正地走出弱肉強食的強盜邏輯，看見了中共政權，為藏民族製造了怎樣深重的苦難。”

2009年1月4日，朱瑞女士前往印度佛教聖地瓦拉納西聆聽尊者達賴喇嘛的傳法。她在離開前很自豪地說：“達蘭薩拉，比世界上任何一個現代城市都更吸引我，從某種意義上說，這裏是我的家，也是我懺悔的地方！”

2009年1月6日 達蘭薩拉

附：朱瑞簡介

朱瑞，女，生於中國東北。現居加拿大。出版過詩集、散文集，及若干中短篇小說，大部分作品以西藏為主題。2008年 3月西藏抗暴發生後，在網路上陸續發表了《藏人為何要抗議》、《軍隊、機槍和子彈，控制不了藏人的心》、《寫給某些中國人》、《迎請達賴喇嘛》、《極端的民族主義情緒，對漢藏兩族都不利》、《致尊者達賴喇嘛的信》、《但願當權者不要錯過良機》、《西藏的希望》、《專訪阿嘉活佛》、《專訪17世噶瑪巴法王》、《專訪西藏流亡政府教育部部長圖丹龍熱》、《到底是漢人》等文章。

英译部分如下：

Zhu Rui- - A Chinese Writer Who Dares to Face Tibetan Sufferings

By Dekyi

Before writing about Ms. Zhu Rui, I hoped that I could be a writer as skilled as she, thus showing her to be as praiseworthy and respected as she really is. However, as a media professional, restrained by an insufficient literary style, I can only describe the time we spent together, broken up into small pieces.

We were introduced by our common friend, Woeser, a famous female Tibetan writer. But for Tibetans who know Chinese and the English language, Ms. Zhu Rui is not a stranger. What shocked me about Ms. Zhu Rui is the Tibet-related content of her novels, poetry, prose, or essays, with unique insights, rational thinking.

What struck me was that she was truthful, sincere, and genuine.

At the beginning when she first arrived in India in early November 2008, she told me, "Dharamsala is the place which I long for even in dreams!" In Dharamshala her dream came true and she paid a formal visit to His Holiness the Dalai Lama, the most admired person in her life. She described the Dalai Lama as a kind father and gracious God, but still retaining a king's honor, not like that of the ruler, but of the protector, that lets people experience the joys and sorrows of a normal life under His wings.

On August 8, the Beijing Olympic Games started, and Ms. Zhu Rui wrote to His Holiness the Dalai Lama an Open Letter, expressing a Han’s perspective and offers sympathy for the plight of Tibetan people and to His Holiness infinite respect, and explaining how this kind of respect will continue for generations.

On November 22, Ms. Zhu Rui was officially received by His Holiness the Dalai Lama with 10 Chinese Democratic activists from various countries at His residence in Dharamsala. Zhu Rui said: "In more than two hours of interview, without saying any pompous words, His Holiness was impressive-looking, and He treated each person earnestly and as equals during the exchange of thoughts. The Dalai Lama respects all lives, and he trusts all lives. In his world, there is no division of rank. From herein, I understand why the democratic system in the exiled community is deep-rooted. The Chinese Communist leaders should come and meet the Dalai Lama to better understand that the world is not full of deceit, evil, and dictatorship, but that there is honesty, decency, and democracy. The last three will last forever. In my opinion, when they oppose His Holiness, they oppose the world, and in doing so, inadvertently expose their evil. "

In nearly two months in Dharamsala, she has interviewed the 17th Karmapa Rinpoche, the Highest Lama of Kagyu sect, Prof. Samdhong Rinpoche, the Prime Minister of the Tibetan government-in-exile, Mr. Thupten Lungrig, the Minister of the Department of Education, Ven. Tsering Phuntsok, the Minister of the Department of Culture and Religion, Mrs. Takla Kelsang Yangkyi, Minister of the Department of Information and International Relations, and Mr. Ngodup Dorjee, Additional Secretary of the Department of Home, and so on. Some of her interviews have already been published in Woeser’s blog and other Chinese websites such as Boxun. These have been thoroughly covered by the media.

Through a series of interviews to achieve a deeper understanding of the development of traditional Tibetan religion and culture, the operation of various departments of Tibet's exiled government, the development of a democratic system, educational undertakings, the progress of Tibet-China dialogue, and the future prospects of Tibet. She also visited nongovernmental organizations. The Gu-Chu-Sum Movement, or the Tibetan ex-political prisoners Association, and the Tibetan Youth Congress were among those she visited. She said: "These two organizations have the essential difference with Chinese Communist Party's propaganda; these are not the Terrorist organizations. In my opinion, such organizations are the perfectly justifiable charities. "

Her passion combined with her thorough knowledge of the Tibetan issue has given her a drive that knows no limitation. Her need for deeper understanding of the Tibetan experience has brought her into both the public exile community in Dharamsala as well as Government offices to exchange and communicate with the elder and younger Tibetan people who know well and are proficient in Tibetan traditional folk custom, the original Tibet aristocrat life style, and the literature and art of Tibet.

She never wastes time, even when she is eating or drinking tea, naturally attracting the people around her to discuss her work. She is always like that, with an inherent kindness, sincerity, and warmth to each person. Many people, myself included, who have had the pleasure of meeting Zhu Rui have said that “in her previous life she was certainly a Tibetan."

Ms. Zhu Rui and Ms. Woeser once worked together at "Tibetan Literature" magazine in Lhasa. As both colleagues and friends, she has a unique insight into Woeser’s work. She described: "Many Chinese literary works look very nice, full of gratifying words but lack any substance. Woeser’s work however, is simple but vigorous, packed with fresh ideas and is gaining popularity. Her writing style is delicate and it comes naturally. Tibetan literature is a big literary realm and there is no doubt that such writings have broad prospects. Those that do not appreciate superior literature will not fully understand her great writing."

"Unlike those writers that work within the Communist system, Woeser has never ignored the plight of Tibet in favor of her personal interest, or stay in one literary genre or doctrine to play the words game. She has never tried to use technology and novelty to decorate her words to flaunt herself in the literary circles of China. As a Tibetan and a writer, she meticulously and faithfully writes about everything she saw. She was a witness to this era. She writes endlessly of the sufferings of Tibetan people. She has a profound background in literature and a keen sense of beauty, and her stories are natural and vigorous, and transcend words."

Ms. Zhu Rui uses her voice to affect action when it comes to resolving the Tibet issue as soon as possible. Through her persuasive writing style, she has built bridges between Tibetans and Han Chinese, eliminate mutual misunderstanding, and to create bonds and recognition between the two sides. She introduces to the Chinese people Tibetan history, culture, folk-customs, politics, national identity, and the current miserable situation. Since the March 2008 protests throughout Tibet against Chinese Communist Party rule and ensuing bloody crackdown by Chinese military and police, she has shown the world the reality of Tibetan suffering, and wrote a well-founded investigative report: "Why Tibetans Want to protest". Zhu Rui has deep love for and shares a connection with Tibet. She breathes the same air as Tibetans, and in the face of total adversity, she worries about the future of Tibet, as she worries about the suffering of Tibetans.

On public awareness of the Tibet issue, Ms. Zhu Rui said: "a Chinese writer still living on the mainland said that he supported independence for Tibet for no other reason but for the Tibetan people who have a strong national consciousness. An Englishman who has stayed in Dharamshala for a long time said that 'in the face of increasingly scarce resources of China, the Tibet issue seems even more hopeless. However, as long as the Tibetan people keep the traditional Tibetan culture, one day, the Tibet issue will be resolved, because dynasties collapse - no one is forever.' I agree to the above statement. For me, I support Tibetans own choices. Independence or autonomy - that is their right to opinion. The path to this end, it seems, there are two important ways: First, like His Holiness the Dalai Lama said, to communicate with the Chinese people. Now, the four non-government organizations in the exile community (Gu-Chu-Sum movement, the Former Political Prisoners Association, the Tibetan Women's Association, Tibetan National Democratic Party, and Students for a Free Tibet), have started supporting activities outlined in 2008 Charter. Showing solidarity is an effective way to communicate and build relationships with the Chinese. Second, to protect Tibetan traditional culture, and make the Tibetan people last forever."

On December 30, Ms. Zhu Rui interviewed His Holiness the Dalai Lama. She told me when it comes to the views and feelings about the interview she "…felt His sincerity and compassion, more strongly than the first time. To have the Dalai Lama is not only Tibetan luck, but rather that of all people, especially Han Chinese luck. I hope one day that more Chinese will realize this. At that time, Chinese people will leave behind the gangster logic of the strong preying upon the weak. Then they will see how the Chinese Communist regime inflicts great suffering upon the Tibetan people."

January 4, 2009, Ms. Zhu Rui left for the holy city of Varanasi in India to receive teachings offered by His Holiness the Dalai Lama. Before leaving, she was very proud to say: "Dharamsala is more attractive to me than any other modern cities in the world. In a sense this is my home and place of repentance!"

January 8, 2009, Dharamsala

Add: Profile Zhu Rui

Zhu Rui, female, was born in northeastern China. Now she lives in Canada. She has published several novels, poems, essays, and a number of short stories. Most of her work is related to Tibet. In March 2008 after the uprising in Tibet, Ms. Zhu Rui published many articles on the Internet, including "Why Tibetans Want to Protest", "The Army, Machine Guns, and Bullets, Not Control the Hearts of Tibetans", "Write to Some Chinese", "Invite The Dalai Lama "," Extreme Nationalist Sentiment on both Chinese and Tibetan Communities Are Disadvantaged", "A Letter to His Holiness the Dalai Lama", "Hope the One in Power Doesn’t Miss This Opportunity ", "Hope of Tibet", "Exclusive Interview with Arjia Rinpoche", "Exclusive Interview with the 17th Karmapa Rinpoche", "Exclusive Interview with Mr. Thupten Lungrig, the Minister of the Department of Education", "In the End, Han is Han" and other articles.

Originally written in Mandarin, translated by Dekyi on 8 January, 2009.

（以上转自《国际西藏邮报》）