——达兰萨拉尼蒙电脑中心（NYIMON COMPUTER CENTRE）印象
文/朱瑞
[国际西藏邮报2009年1月26日首发]人们不得不承认，高高的喜马拉雅，并没有挡住所有的阴云。我是说，有些时候，达兰萨拉的环境并不单纯。然而，尼蒙电脑中心是单纯的，单纯而又安全，如同一片纯蓝的天空。
和其它的网吧不一样，这里没有常见的混乱和喧哗，是秩序的，也是宁静的，甚至带着扑面而来的书卷气息。
也许是达兰萨拉的大多数旅馆里，没有上网设施吧，相应地，这里的大街小巷，尽是网吧。我的旅馆附近，就排列了好几家，举步即到。可是，我还是每天带上自己的手提电脑，爬上一个高坡，再下到一个低处，到并不算近的尼蒙电脑中心查看信件和寻找资料。
最初，尼蒙电脑中心吸引我的原因是网速快。举目可见的墙上，悬挂着一张我最喜爱的达赖喇嘛尊者年轻时的照片，照片的下面写着这样一句话：
永远不要放弃
不论发生了什么
永远不要放弃
在你的国家
过多的精力是用来发展精神
来替代内心
把仁慈
给予每一个人
不仅仅是你的朋友
仁慈地
在这个世界和你的心中
为和平而工作
无论发生了什么
无论在你的周围发生了什么
永远不要放弃
——神圣的十四世达赖喇嘛
我已习惯于早晨八点钟左右查看信件。而这个时候，尼蒙电脑中心的那扇铁网门，更多的是紧紧地关着，因为九点钟开门。而我，是不可以等的，这是八年的北美生活留下的后遗症。的确，对于大多数生活在西方的人来说，时间，比金子还要宝贵。有几次，我硬是敲响了尼蒙电脑中心的铁门。
“早晨好！”老板尼玛顿珠微笑着立刻出现在门前。
“对不起，这么早打拢您！”我说。
“没关系。”尼玛顿珠一边说着，一边退到门边，为我让开了路。迅速地帮我上网后，通常，还要端来一杯甜茶。太好喝了，即不清淡，也不油腻，是所有的甜茶中，我最喜欢的。
有一次，实在太早了，我不好意思敲门，就到了对面的网吧。“朱瑞！”刚坐下，就听到有人喊我。原来，是在尼蒙电脑中心工作的达瓦，他正在站在门外的雨里看着我呢。他是偶然经过时发现我的。如同见了救命恩人似的，我立刻跟着他回到了尼蒙电脑中心。站在门前，达瓦指给了我门楣上方的门铃，说，“敲门的声音有时太小，任何时候，只要你来，就拉铃。”
我和尼蒙电脑中心所有的人都熟悉了，而最熟悉的当然还是老板尼玛顿珠。他是在母亲的流亡途中出生的，那是尼泊尔和西藏的边境。后来，他在西藏儿童村学习了十二年，再后来，在印度南部的郭里嘎难民社区的宗萨寺工作了八年，既当秘书，又教僧人们学习英文，最后回到达兰萨拉，在辩经学院，一呆又是八年。
那时，辩经院办了一个电脑培训班，作为工作人员，尼玛顿珠既负责管理，又要教授电脑知识，同时自己也要不断的学习和补充。他说，“在教学中，我学到了很多东西，正像嘉瓦仁波切说的那样，‘为人谋利的同时，自己也获利’。我的感受太大了，在这方面。”
但是，辩经院的收入太低，不足以抵挡一家老小的开支，这样，尼玛顿珠自己开起了电脑培训班。不仅可以维持一家人的生活，还可以继续传授电脑知识。其实，只靠电脑培训和网吧，甚至不够支付房租，为了增加一些收入，尼玛顿珠还搞设计，录相，音乐等其它工作。2005年，他自费出版了自己编写的“COMPUTER COURSE FOR BEGINNERS”，做为初学者学习电脑的入门教材，并在寺院和学校，进行了免费增送。
目前为止，尼蒙电脑中心已培训了四百多学生，加上辩经学院的学生，尼玛顿珠为流亡社会共培养了一千多名学生，都是他亲自教授和指导。尊敬出家人，是西藏社会自古以来的传统。在尼玛顿珠的教学中，也显而易见地体现了出来。尽管僧人和尼姑在收费上一律平等，但是他总是给他们比俗人更多的时间学习，比如普通人是一个小时，而出家人，就是两个小时甚至三个小时。
针对僧人和尼姑将回到寺院从事电脑工作的实际情况，尼玛更多地教他们修理电脑的技术，同时他还举行一些培训会。但是，很多僧尼提出建议，说，尼玛顿珠编写的这本电脑书尽管很好，不过，由于是英语编写的，有些人读不懂，尼玛就又着手翻译成藏文。
“教出了这么多的学生，我很骄傲，社会上需要更多的电脑培训者。”说着，尼玛顿珠憨厚地笑了。
《Unlocking Tibet》是唯色和王力雄合著并被译成英文的深受广大读者欢迎的好书，其封面，就是尼玛顿珠设计的。“为什么把王力雄和唯色两人设计成了背对着背呢？”我问。
“一个是汉人，一个是藏人，他们的观点有时也不一样，但是，在介绍西藏真实情况这一点上，他们是一致的，都毫不畏惧地站立在危险的中国，坚守正义。”
尼玛顿珠设计过很多封面，但是，从没有用过自己的名字，“这一次为《Unlocking Tibet》设计封面，是不得不用自己的名字，是人家要求的。”
很偶然的，我在达兰萨拉的大街上遇到了一位十多年前，在拉萨时的老朋友，我们就一起去了附近的一家网吧，那以后，我的电脑莫名其妙地出现了病毒。这样一来，就更不敢去其它网吧了。
这位多年前我在拉萨老相识，有一次复印东西的时候，带着我到了尼蒙电脑中心。我说，“你为什么专门到这里呢？”“这里最便宜。”他说。的确，尼玛顿珠不仅没有生意人唯利是图的特点，倒像是一个乐善好施的修行人。
有一次，达瓦看到了我的电脑上，我和尊者站在一起的照片，就说，“给我吧？”我毫不犹豫地COPE进了他的U盘。并说，“这是永远的纪念，我不想发表。”他点点头。在环境格外复杂的达兰萨拉，我对尼蒙电脑中心，有着甚至超越老相识的信任。而这种信任从何而来呢？
静静的电脑室里，尼玛一丝不苟，耐心而清晰地指导孩子们和那些上了年纪的人们学习电脑，这种认真和负责的态度，还有对待他的工作人员的信任和友善，都让我不自主地一次在一次地在心中赞叹着。
离开达兰萨拉前往瓦拉纳西倾听尊者讲座时，尼玛给了我一个红色的纸包，说，“这是一点心意。”我说，“可以打开吗？”他笑了，点点头。原来，是一个银色的项链，还点缀着纯银色的圆形装饰物。我说了声“谢谢”，就放在了桌子上。尼玛却反问我，“你知道这是什么？”
“项链啊。”我说。
“仅仅是项链吗？”
“还有别的意思吗？”
“再看一看。”尼玛拿起了那个银色的圆形装饰物。
我说，“这是一个装饰物啊！”
“仅仅是装饰物吗？”
我再次拿起来，按照尼玛的指点，细看那个圆形的银盘，“啊，原来，原来那上面印制着照片！是我送给达瓦的我和尊者站在一起的那张照片啊！
“当初，向你要那张照片时，我就想到了今天。”达瓦走来了。
那天晚上，尼玛顿珠让达瓦提着我所有的沉重的行李，到了汽车站，而后，达瓦又上了车，坐在了我的身边：“我要和你一起到德里，直到把你送上去往瓦拉纳西的火车。”我说，“这是在太浪费你的时间啊！”“不，我也是到德里去买一些电脑用品，真的，不完全是为你。”停了一会儿，达瓦又忍不住说，“我的老板说了，你那么善良，那么理解为我们这些离乡背景的藏人，应该为你做一点事。”
其实，我并没有为藏民族做什么，不过是说了真话而已，这是作为一个人最基本的素质。
完稿于2009年1月21日达兰萨拉
My Second Home
——My opinion of Nyimon Computer Centre at Dharamsala
By Zhu Rui - Translated by Dekyi
Dharamshala: TibetPost-26January-2009-People have to admit, the high Himalaya Mountains don't block all the dark clouds. The environment in Dharamsala is not uncontaminated. However, the Nyimon Computer Centre is pure, simple and safe as a clear blue sky.
Unlike the other Internet cafes, there is no common chaos and noise: everything is in order and quiet, and the air carries the smell of books.
Most of the hotels in Dharamsala don't have Internet facilities; therefore, the streets are full of Internet cafes. Just a few steps away from my hotel there are several cafes side by side. But, I take my laptop every day, climb up a high-slope, and then down to Nyimon Computer Centre, which is not so nearby, to check my email and read the news.
From the start, the Nyimon Computer Centre has attracted me for two reasons: one is its fast speed, and second is in spite of all the other Internet cafes' high prices, since the charges are lower here. There is also one of my favorite pictures of His Holiness the Dalai Lama, at a young age, hanging on the wall. Under the photo is written:
"Never give up
No matter what is going on
Never give up
Develop the heart
Too much energy in your country
Is spent developing the mind
Instead of the heart
Be compassionate
Not just to your friends
But to everyone
Be compassionate
Work for peace
In your heart and in the world
Work for peace
And I say again
Never give up
No matter what is going on around you
Never give up.
His Holiness the Fourteenth Dalai Lama"
I am usually accustomed to checking my email around 8 o'clock in the morning. That early, the iron gate of the Nyimon Computer Centre was locked, because they don't open until 9 o'clock. But I am impatient, which becomes a habit after eight years living in North America. Indeed, for most people living in the West, time is valuable as gold. However, in the other Internet cafes, I am never comfortable, especially when they charge higher prices. Those few Rupees take away my desire to ever go back again. A few times, I've just knocked the iron door of the Nyimon Computer Centre.
"Good morning!" says Nyima Dhundup, the director of the Nyimon Computer Centre, immediately appearing at the door with smile.
"Sorry to disturb you so early!" I say.
"It doesn't matter." Nyima Dhundup says. He quickly helps me connect to the Internet and offers me a cup of sweet tea, as usual. The tea tastes very good, not too light, not too greasy, just the way I prefer the most.
Once, I came very early. I was too embarrassed to knock on the door, so I went to a café opposite the Nyimon Computer Centre. Just as I was sitting down, "Zhu Rui!" I heard someone call to me. It was Dawa, who works for the Nyimon Computer Centre, standing outside in the rain. He saw me when I passed by and I felt rescued. He took me into Nyimon Computer Centre and stood in font of the door and pointed to the doorbell, and said, "The sound of knocking is too quiet to hear sometimes. When you come at anytime, just ring the doorbell."
I and all the other regular customers of the Nyimon Computer Centre are very familiar with Nyima Dhundup, the director of the centre. He was born in the border of Nepal and Tibet when his mother was escaping Tibet into exile. Later, he studied at the Tibetan Children's Village school (TCV) in Dharamsala until class twelve. Later, he went to Colegal Tibetan refugee community in South India and worked for Dzongsar monastery for eight years. He was a secretary and taught English to the monks. He finally returned to Dharamsala and stayed another eight years at Institution of Buddhists Dialectics.
At that time, the Institution of Buddhists Dialectics started a computer training course. As a staff member, Nyima Dhundup was responsible for both the management and teaching computer science. At the same time, he also had to continue learning computers. He said, "During teaching, I learned many things, as His Holiness the Dalai Lama says, 'well-profit for others, at the same time, oneself is also profit.' I feel too much, in this respect. "
However, the pay at the Institution of Buddhists Dialectics was too low to cover his family's expenses. So, Nyima Dhundup started his own computer training courses. He was not only able to make a living, but also could continue to teach computer literacy. Nyima Dhundup also engaged in design, video, and music. In 2005, out of his own pocket, he wrote and published the "COMPUTER COURSE FOR BEGINNERS", as a teaching manual for beginners to learn the computer science, and was sent to monasteries and schools, free of charge.
So far, he has trained more than 400 students at the Nyimon Computer Centre, and even more at the Institution of Buddhists Dialectics. Nyima Dhundup has taught a total of more than a thousand students in the exile community.
Respect for monks and nuns is a convention in Tibetan society since ancient times. Nyima Dhundup's teachings also reflect this moral spirit: although the monks and nuns pay the same as others, he always gives them the extra time to learn. For example, class is customarily an hour for most students, but monks and nuns are given two or even three hours.
To help monks and nuns continue utilizing their computer skills after returning to the monasteries and nunneries, Nyima spends more time in training workshops, teaching them how to repair computers. However, many monks and nuns have said that although Nyima Dhundup's computer manual is very good, it isn't easy to read because it's written in English. Nyima then embarked on translating it into Tibetan.
"Teaching so many students, I feel very proud and society needs more people to teach computer courses," said Nyima Dhundup, smiling.
"Unlocking Tibet "is a book co-written by the Tibetan writer, Woeser, and her husband, Wang Li Xiong, the Chinese writer who translated the book into English, which was welcomed by many readers. The cover of this book was designed by Nyima Dhundup. "Why is your design Wang Li Xiong and Woeser standing back-to-back?" I asked.
"One is a Han Chinese and the other is a Tibetan: they sometimes are not in the same point of view, but, on the point of the introduction, of the real situation, they are the same. Both of them are not afraid to face the danger of the repercussions from the Chinese authority for the services of justice."
Nyima Dhundup has designed many book covers, but never used his name before he was requested to for "Unlocking Tibet".
I occasionally run into an old friend in the streets of Dharamsala, who I knew in Lhasa ten years ago. We went to a nearby Internet café where my computer was inexplicably attacked by a virus. After that, I was afraid to go to any Internet cafes.
One day my old friend took me to the Nyimon Computer Centre to make a copy. I asked, "Why do you especially come here?" "Here, it is the cheapest," he said. Indeed, Nyima Dhundup is not motivated by profit, unlike the character of many businessmen; he appears more like a charitable person.
On one occasion, Dawa, another working in the Internet café, saw the photo on my computer of His Holiness the Dalai Lama and me, and then said, "Give it to me, right?" I did not hesitate to copy into his U disk. And said, "This is an eternal commemoration that I do not want it published." He nodded. Particularly in Dharamsala, with the complex environment, I trust Nyimon Computer Centre more than my old friend. And where does this trust come from?
In the quiet cyber room, Nyima gives clear and patient guidance to children and elderly people to learn computers. Such a conscientious and responsible attitude, as well as the treatment of his staff, is always out of trust and friendship. I always admired his attitude.
Before leaving Dharamsala to go to Varanasi for His Holiness the Dalai Lama's teaching, Nyima had given me a red paper and said, "This is a small gift." I said, "Can I open?" He smiled and nodded. It turned out that was a silver necklace, dotted with pure silver round ornaments. I said "Thank you", and placed it on the table. Nyima asked me, "You know what this is?"
"Necklace!" I said.
"Is it just a necklace?"
"Are there other meanings?" "Let us take a look." Nyima picked up the silver round ornament.
I said, "Oh, this is a charm!"
"Is it only a charm?"
I picked it up again, following Nyman's hints, I looked carefully at that silver round charm. There was actually a portrait printed on the charm. It was my special treasure, the picture of His Holiness the Dalai Lama and me! That was the photo I gave to Dawa as a gift.
As Dawa walked by, he said "At first, I asked you for the photo because I thought of this gift for you today."
That night, Nyima Dhundup let Dawa take all my heavy baggage to the bus station, then Dawa also got on a vehicle, sitting on my side: "I want to come to Delhi with you until you get on the train to Varanasi," he said. I said," This is too much to waste your time! "" No, I am also going to Delhi to buy some computer supplies, really, is not entirely a matter for you." Dawa stopped for a while before saying, "My boss said you are very kind and always understanding of Tibetans in Exile, we should do something for you."
In fact, I did not do anything for the Tibetan people, but in my morals I tell the truth: this is the most basic quality in a person.
Finalized in January 21, 2009 Dharamsala
